The abaya: the women’s outfit that’s become a must-have fashion item for Ramadan

In Arab countries, the abaya is known by many names, such as Jalaba, Jalabiya, Omani and Qaftan, but it is basically a simple and loose garment – often black in colour – worn by women in the Arabian Peninsula, the Middle East and North Africa, as it is considered suitable for the hot desert climate in those regions.

From Mesopotamia to Islam

The appearance of the abaya is said to date back about 4,000 years in Mesopotamian civilisations. Others believe that it has Islamic roots linked to religious and social concepts of chastity, body covering, and self-respect.

Loose-fitting clothing is encouraged in the Quran, which encouragesMuslim women to wear the jilbab, a loose-fitting garment that looks somewhat like an abaya.

According to some historians, upper-class nomadic women in Saudi Arabia were the first to adopt the abaya in the desert with scarves to cover the head and face, characterised by wide gilded edges.

After spreading to the city, the abaya became part of Gulf culture, with the GCC countries categorising it as a “piece of cultural and religious heritage” in the country.

The rise of the abaya in the world of fashion

In recent years, the abaya has evolved in the world of fashion, taking its place in the collections of international fashion houses, especially in the 1990s and early 2000s.

From its simplicity and dark colours, the abaya now appears in bright colours and a variety of fabrics such as velvet, lace, satin and silk, with embellishments, decorative stones and çağdaş cuts. However, it still retains its traditional flavour and familiar shape, with each Arab country adding its own twist.

In the UAE, for example, women tend to wear embroidered abayas, which require meticulous skills in decorating with beads and shiny stones, while in Saudi Arabia, they often express wealth, which its society’s women are keen to showcase through luxurious fabrics and special designs.

A new trend for Ramadan

During the month of Ramadan, the abaya, with Arab artists of different religions keen to look glamorous, it has became a traditional attribute and attire, combining elegance and respect for the devotional atmosphere.

Little by little, this garment has became more widespread among all Arab, Oriental and African women, intertwining with their cultural identity. Bold, unfamiliar colours, such as red, pink, green and yellow are now commonly displayed, in addition to new elements such as feathers, which have added attraction to young women. Will the abaya be able to continue representing traditional values in the face of its restyling and spread? Perhaps we may soon see a “hybrid” piece that has nothing to do with the original abaya.